Castles and the wind….seeking beauty

I return to give you the absolutely gorgeous Bryce canyons in some more detail.. While Grand Canyons may have a lot of tales to tell, Bryce canyons just fulfills your dreams and fantasies of seeing castles and queens. Age and even erosion indeed can add beauty in its own right..

However, the rocks exposed in the Bryce canyons are younger than the Grand Canyon, about a 100 million years old, the youngest in the ‘Grand Staircase’ formation: headed by the Grand canyon rocks, followed by Zion National park rocks that lie in between Bryce and Grand canyons, both in age and location.  The series of natural amphitheaters in Bryce were carved on the sides of the Paunsaugunt Plateau by erosion and frost weathering; the formations of hoodoos and grottos are typical of this region. Since the amphitheaters did not arise because of erosion caused by a central stream, unlike the Grand canyons ( the Colorado river being the central stream there), the name Bryce canyon is a misnomer: it is not really a canyon.

Hoodoos (the eroded sculptured pillar-like projections) and Grottos ( the holes or caves)
Hoodoos (the eroded sculptured pillar-like projections) and Grottos ( the holes or caves)

Bryce is mysterious and beckoning while the Grand Canyons seem more like an open documentation of 2000 million years of the Earth’s history. I have been asked which of the two places I would recommend. Depending on who is asking, if there was only one place they can go to; for the general traveller, or a photographer and hiking enthusiast I would recommmend Bryce. For a geology enthusiast, a pro hiker looking for a challenge I would recommend the Grand Canyons.

There are several popular trails in Bryce, they are of moderate intensity largely on account of steep climbs and the elevation (of about 8000 ft- 9000ft). We  did two of the trails, in two days. The Queen’s garden trail, Navajo trail; all the view points, with Inspiration point being my favorite: it has the view of the Silent valley (see the photos below) left me speechless. I felt the wizard’s spell lingering.. perhaps only for the wicked (like me!). The sunset and rainbow points are also breathtaking and the natural bridge (which is an arch) is also a wonder. In fact, nowhere else have I seen every turn-out, turn out to be that worthwhile.

As I have mentioned before I think, I am not a landscape photographer ( as in, it is not my preferred type of photography). However, when the views are this levitating.. I will be whatever they want me to be.

There are not many options to eat in or around the park, off-season. We stayed at Ruby’s Inn ( also called Best Western) and there were always huge lines at peak lunch time and dinner time. We were usually lucky at breakfast and got seated right away. Food is not outstanding but service is good. One night we dined at a very closeby restaurant: the Bryce Canyon Pines (also a motel) and their home -made pies were really as good as advertised. One of the four days we were there, we drove down to a nearby town called Panguitch (still about 20-30 min drive) from the park for lunch and had a surprisingly good lunch at a ‘Flying M Coffee shop’. Their coffee was very good ( and one of their wall hangings said, ‘Our coffee is so good even we drink it’).  There is a lake a bit way off from the town, called Panguitch lake, quite beautiful, but it was too cold to stand around and take in the view for long.. It was very secluded and a little frozen in parts.

Flying M coffee shop and restaurant- Panguitch
Flying M coffee shop and restaurant- Panguitch

Our last day we drove down to the Escalante region, happened to reach a Petrified Forest state park right by the Wide hollow reservoir. I had not seen a petrified forest before this and even if you don’t take the trail you can still see a very large tree trunk that is now petrified wood right at the beginning of the trail. The trail itself was quite fantastic, starts at about 6000ft going on to  probably a few hundred feet higher at the top most part. The ‘sleeping rainbow loop’ connects to the main loop-trail and is definitely rightly named by someone musical.. The myriad colors of petrified wood, from red, orange to bright purple are something to behold indeed! It is slightly steep in regions, but well worth it, like we were advised by a very nice family walking their dog, two little kids in tow who were getting back to their car from the trail. They were dressed in T shirts while we both looked like we were just getting ready to go to the arctic circle.

After this trail we went towards to Escalante state park and were not at all surprised to find the gravel road that we had been warned about. We did find it surprisingly hard to drive on ( I suppose not that surprisingly). We managed about 10 miles, made it to the Devil’s garden and back thanking our stars.. Not advisable unless you have a four wheel drive or can drive 10 mph with constantly chattering gravel for 56 miles, but we will get a four wheel drive if we do return. The park is relatively less traversed on account of being back country, I imagine all year.

Even in off season, seeing the lines in Ruby’s Inn, one can only imagine the crowds in real season.

Colors of Petrified wood
Colors of Petrified wood

Prime reason #1 to return is to participate in one of the dark ranger led the star gazing program in summer, offered thrice a week. It was overcast all three days we were there. But the eerie silence and the ever staring hooodoos covered with snow are a sight in themselves at night.

Overall an excellent four days. One of the best short trips I have been on and highly recommended. Additional photos below.

Thor's Hammer (Navajo Trail; Bryce amphitheater)
Thor’s Hammer (Navajo Trail; Bryce amphitheater)

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Wall street edge- Navajo Trail
Wall street edge- Navajo Trail

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Gulliver's Castle
Gulliver’s Castle
Silent City : City of the wicked people, petrified by a wizard.
Silent City : City of the wicked people, petrified by a wizard (says a legend)

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Heimdall: Guardian of Bryce ( I named this tree that)
Heimdall: Guardian of Bryce ( I named this tree)
Sunset's reflection at Rainbow point
Sunset’s reflection at Rainbow point
This is on the way back from Escalante (to Bryce)
On the way back from Escalante (to Bryce)
Queen Victoria ( this is the name given to the formation seen at the edge of the valley) overlooking her garden
Queen Victoria ( the name given to the formation seen at the edge of the valley) overlooking her garden
Rock & Roll: Petrified wood and a juniper trunk
Rock &roll: Petrified wood takes a hundred million years to form. The red and orange shades in it are because of iron, purple and pink because of manganese.. Juniper trunks can get twisted around by wind..

Haider, Vishal Bhardwaj and I

y6q6bqkyam4z4ohp.D.0.Tabu-Haider-Movie-Image Jungle_Book_Shōnen_Mowgli When I was a kid I had a favorite TV show called Jungle Book. It was a time when India and Doordarshan had good shows, even animations or adaptations. Jungle book was an animation of the celebrated book ( directed by no other that  Fumio Kurokawa) and since the book was written in India, perhaps a better children’s book for Indian kids with animals doesn’t exist ( or so I think). It would upset me when I missed the opening track. Every time, I had to listen to it. There were just a few lines, but I sang along every time. As did my dad. It was his favorite too. The video is linked.

Jungle, jungle baat chali hai, pata chala hai… ( A bit of news has spread through all the jungles.. )

Chaddi pehenke phool khila hai phool khila hai ( that a flower- wearing underpants, has  just blossomed!- this is the reference to Mowgli)

Ek Parinda hain sharminda tha woh nanga ( a little birdie is ashamed of being (born) naked)

Bhai, isse to ande ke andar tha woh changa ( he was much better off inside the egg!)

Soch raha hai bahar akhir kyu nikla hain ( he wonders why he ever came out of the egg..)

Chaddi pehenke phool ke hila hai phool khila hain ( encore) . The lyrics are by the unsecondable Gulzar and the music was by the (then) newly hatched Vishal Bhardwaj. I didn’t know this till a while later, when we were watching the reruns and I was older. He did scores for several other Hindi TV shows and if you listen to those title tracks, like that of Gubbare, they have a lasting quality that is again, and still, unseconded. They (Gulzar and Bhardwaj) made a peerless pair and a lot can be written ( and surprisingly has not been! although I suppose the people know, who want to) about them.  I will only write about Maachis here, the movie that changed my outlook towards terrorism in Punjab, I was 14. Although India as a state can state ‘ending’ terrorism in Punjab as one of its true victories, what ‘me’, the common Indian child brought up in Delhi when Punjab was still changing, thought of terrorists would be effected greatly by that movie. One of those times, when a good movie actually gets what it deserves from the audience. I find myself humming a few of its tunes even today, unknowingly. Hase to do galo pe, bhawar pada karte the.. Chod aaye hum woh galiya. Tabu, in 1993 when she first started,  was tagged by my 11 yr old brain as not pretty enough to make it as a “heroine” (by which I must have meant as having too intelligent a face that cannot help but look out of place in a typical bollywood film: as I like to think of myself as someone who has always spotted talent-smirk). But Maachis was not typical. She reigned in it. I came back from the theatre feeling most depressed and strange. Initially, I thought that was because she dies in the end, heroines never die in the end in Indian movies. They often do nothing, but even so, they definitely don’t die in the end. It was a very new feeling and only now have I seen enough movies to recognize what that meant. It meant: that I had changed a little. That the movie worked. I have read books that do that, but books that actually change your thinking need a mature brain to digest. I think mine was not that mature at the time. Then, I read books to know more about the world, which is the beginning of the journey inwards.

But time passed and I was again molding to fit the crowd I was surrounded by, I watched Vijaypath and remember thinking that I had been originally right about Tabu and imagined she too would be lost to the industry soon enough. How wrong I was, and how wonderful that is.

Fast forward to Omkara (2006).. I first heard the music and I was like, oh Sukhwinder Singh is god ( he is) and who is that guy singing that romantic song ‘o saathi re’ ( it is Vishal Bhardwaj himself). I loved all the  soundtracks and  didn’t realize it was my chaddi friend (Bhardwaj) until I think my dad mentioned it.  Omkara brought out the best in all of the actors involved. Ajay Devgn (who did have other feathers like Zakhm in his cap and can hold his own, when the need arises) gave his careers best and has since decided he doesn’t need to worry about which movies he does any more. After all, how can he possibly better Omkara? Kareena Kapoor who was perfectly cast and will also never do anything like that again, I fear (but I don’t really care). Saif gave the performance of his lifetime. He can actually die happy having done that movie. I think, he had been working up to that pinnacle in his previous life as an actor and making headway with Dil Chahta Hain, Being Cyrus and Parineeta, then he reached it in Omkara and is now busy digging his way out.

I am not an English Lit. reader and while  I think I have read most of Shakespeare’s plays,  they were likely simplified versions. Like everyone else I seem to know the stories, more, through osmosis. I am not that ashamed of this, it is like my shameless indifference (although no lack of admiration) to Beatles’ ( other than ‘Hey Jude’, mostly, as I have previously noted in this very blog) and Agatha Christie.  But between Othello and Hamlet, I would probably choose Hamlet. Between Omkara and Haider, I would choose, with not-a-little sigh..: Haider.

From play at words with ‘chutzpah’ ( the hebrew word loosely meaning ‘audacity’ but in the script takes on its own meaning, from ‘winning accolades’ to ‘something like courage or misinterpretaion of it’ and lov-ed and use-ed ( the words are spoken with a ‘Kashmiri’ accent where the final ‘ed’ is like the name Ed). Bhardwaj has used a similar dialectic in Omkara where Kareena couldn’t pronounce ‘boTTom’ with appropriate refinement. I may be completely mistaken but I could not help but be reminded of the hindi slang word, very commonly used with a wide variety and shades of meanings, sounding very close to chutzpah (which itself is a sophisticated word). I took this opportunity to create my own wordplay (see above). Then there is the fitting parody of the popular icons of entertainment in the form of Salmans (the Salman Khan fans of Kashmir) who are the counterparts of the courtiers in the original play. Shahid Kapoor is no doubt in his career’s best (but hopefully not his last at that). To me, he does look and act like his dad in more than a few scenes, but when your dad is Pankaj Kapoor that is a compliment. In the song Bismil, Shahid Kapoor doesn’t just strike, but creates his own chords to play and in my eyes achieves the exalted status of  a pure artist that many actors never acheive in decades of their career. Or ever. If he ever feels the need for reassurance in this unforgiving field, all he needs to do is see himself telling a story in Bismil. I would recommend it to everyone who doubts that bollywood is as good as Hollywood (but again, don’t waste your time explaining to people who like stereotyping). The Freudian dynamic between Shahid and Tabu, playing his mom who starts sleeping with and ends up marrying Hamlet’s uncle soon after his father is killed (deceitfully by the uncle), are expertly portrayed and enacted. In her second role in a Shakespearan adaptation (the previous one was in Maqbool- Macbeth by Bhardwaj as well- I didn’t watch Maqbool till years after its release) Tabu shines brighter than ever before. The shades of Gertrude of innocence and innocent deceit, love, vulnerability and artfulness are all shown with equal conviction. That’s what real women are, especially the ones married to god-like people who are truly generous and selfless, so much, that they spend their lives healing and helping others and sacrifice a more human, perhaps sensitive, wife. She is not as selfless perhaps, or maybe all she needs is a little attention.  Anyone can pay her that, even if it is her brother in law. Over the years Tabu chooses to lie low, I have seen her disappear for a few years, every time she returns with a flair.  I am glad I lived long enough to watch her in this, she gave me hope through her role in Haider that perhaps her best and maybe mine: as I don’t seem to fit anywhere myself, is yet to come. haider-6b Kay Kay Menon is one lucky actor. I don’t think he ever did a character he didn’t want to. He has done more honest, meaningful or hard hitting films than any one person in India, I think. No, I am pretty sure. Not even Naseeruddin Shah can say that and that is saying something. I expect nothing less than perfection from him and anyone else who has seen Paanch ( directed by Anurag Kashyap, but not released until >5 yrs post making) would not either. He delivers too, every time. Luck is not easily created in Bollywood or India. Irrfan Khan is the ghost. This man can be invisible and still give you goosebumps.  He does. One day I will write about only him, his best is expected to release every year from now to forever.

Bhardwaj says, in an interview , in his adaptation, Kashmir itself is ‘Hamlet’, taking on the character instead of remaining just the backdrop of the story. With my limited knowledge of all the interpretations of Shakespeare, I am still thinking about that comment. Is India this orphan’s mother or father or uncle?  Or all of them at different times.. Using Kashmir, the Indian army’s handling of terrorists, the curfews and searches as the story’s backdrop gives an insight that no one has ever given viewers without seeming to be patronizing or trivializing this hyper-real issue. Haider does that successfully in a commercial Indian movie to boot. Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s trite attempt at Romeo and Juliet, even with Ranveer Singh, seems even worse now. Chaddi pehenke phool khila tha, ab Mughal garden ho gaya hai ( the flower that blossomed years ago, has turned into the Mughal gardens : Kashmir’s well known gardens , with a version in Delhi’s President’s house as well). The floods have taken the garden in Kashmir, I heard recently. We need a fresh start. That’s not Bang Bang. Just saying.

In honor of Zoos

Having birds sit and pose, even if they are sometimes behind a glass wall, I remember thinking, prior to my first zoo visit with a camera,should make it easy to get great shots. It is not. Birds: they have a mind of their own. As for the animals, given a big enough perimeter, you often don’t get to see them from any good angle, if at all!

While it is not close to the real ‘wild’ safari or nature viewing, and it is really upsetting when I see badly managed zoos ( it takes enormous effort, knowledge and finances to say the least, not to mention true concern, interest and skill in handling animals and birds), a well run zoo is nothing less than a crowning achievement and one way people learned to truly appreciate and conserve nature while getting first hand lessons from it. There is still a lot of activity, natural and innate of these animals that can be observed when they are comfortable in their living space. It can definitely whet one’s appetite to see what they would do in the wild. These are some shots I have taken in the few zoos or animal care centers I have been to. In one of the meerkat photos below, the two were reacting to an airplane flying high above. The flamigoes were just aroused to some kind of battle to show who is hotter! Male displays for superiority..

I still have the Smithsonian and The San Diego zoo to visit. I just let the kids get there first and get scared of the line.. since I don’t actually live there, I have not had the chance to go back- I am certain they will be worth it 😀  The San Diego zoo undertakes large scale conservation projects, all over the world, including Peru via the Manu national park. As does the Smithsonian. Conservation and research go had in hand.

In the other hand, there are some ‘safaris’ possibly concentrated in the ‘mid-west’ and Oklahoma region where the management and the caretakers and the owners advertise showing the beauty of all of God’s creations, to emphasise how we are his special. An attempt to present ‘humans’ as His best work.  Best in what. Closest to what divinity. In zoos ( or outside in the yard) we can see we have neither the best colors, not the best sight, or a display dance to be proud of. If it is the best brain ( I doubt thats what they mean though, because having ‘faith’ literally means not using this best feature), I just think we have a passably good one, when put to the right use. Only then………
Oops. As always, I think of the brain where I am expected to know it is the ‘soul’ that makes us better.

Maybe, that is because I know we all have a brain. That’s a certainty. And yet we don’t use it. So if our ‘USP’ is having a doubtful thing that is so easily lost, blackened, bartered and yet remains to be proven to actually exist, give me wings.. I say. Or at least feathers.

Meerkat - Tulsa Zoo
Meerkat – Tulsa Zoo

meerkats looking up

Playful orangutans- St. Louis zoo
Playful orangutans- St. Louis zoo
St Louis Zoo
St Louis Zoo: cormorant eating plant

071Emperor penguins

Emperor penguin songs
Emperor penguin songs
Crested coua 1
Crested Coua- Tulsa Zoo
Flamingos in fight
Pink Flamingoes- Tulsa Zoo
Red yellow Barbet- front
Red-yellow Barbet
More tailfeathers peacock
This peacock runs around free at the Tulsa Zoo

Tailfeathers peacock

An Indian village

women and gobor and charcoal

We visited this village a year or so ago. And such is the disregard for villages ( we were headed to an official ‘picnic spot’ that happened to be in the village) that we did not intend to see the village nor did I see its name anywhere visibly displayed. I cannot recall if someone told me its name or not. It was a trip with the in laws..

The picnic spot was not much to speak about, except I saw and heard a few black headed orioles and many small bee eaters.. They also had a rather elaborate flower garden.

small bee eater - very good

After being served lunch and before tea time, we ventured out to the village, right outside the gate. The villagers are not allowed to come in, other than the ones who must work there and we needed to let the guard know that we belonged ‘inside’ were just headed out for a stroll. I don’t think many people do that, no one else did that in the time we were there.

I have previously posted many pictures from this outing. I saw young girls and boys playing around, together. Cow dung cakes stuck on tree barks ( dried, they are used as fuel, they smoke a lot but the source is biologique). Also, hand made balls of coal that are also dried in the sun. It was very quiet and had a very ‘idyllic’ feel. After mid afternoon there were people sitting outside, talking. The street is not paved, pet chickens, hens and goatlings frolicked around.

village street

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Similar tea 'stalls' in Kolkata  city
Similar tea ‘stalls’ in Kolkata city

The village had several small stores and shops selling potato chips, eggs and other daily supplies. Most of them also serve fresh tea made to order and biscuits. These type of tea shops are actually still common in the city: Kolkata. The one on the right is from the city. taken in Behala.

A village shop with attached home

People stared at us politely: just out of interest but no one started a conversation. I took a few photos of the group of children playing and asked them if they wanted to see them, as one of them was pointing out to the others that I was taking photos. One of the girls looked at the photos with interest and called out to her friend, while giggling uncontrollably, saying she (her friend) looks a little crazy in them. I think they are the most beautiful girls I have ever seen. ( I have to take their photos off because I felt some rather dubious internet searches were leading to this photo. too bad. I loved their smiles: it is still the featured image so can be seen in the main homepage, not clicked on though)

bee eater front face
Small bee eater

Iquitos, Peru: of motokars, art; close, yet far to the jungle

Iquitos- Peru While only a couple of decades ago it used to be all jungle, now Iquitos is a thriving city of nearly 500, 000 people. The closest city to the Peruvian Amazon, and can be reached by air or water only
Iquitos- Peru While only a couple of decades ago it used to be all jungle, now Iquitos is a thriving city of nearly 500, 000 people. The closest city to the Peruvian Amazon, and can be reached by air or water only
A garden we visited: as kids grow up in the city, their connection to the jungle and nature faces the challenges that all city children face. Even though, they are much closer to the biggest rainforest in the world. This garden is inside a school that is teaching children about conservation and pride in a heritage very rare, and unique
A garden we visited: as kids grow up in the city, their connection to the jungle and nature faces the challenges that all city children face. Even though, they are much closer to the biggest rainforest in the world. This garden is inside a school that is teaching children about conservation and pride in a heritage very rare, and unique
Motokars (my spelling) are the main mode of transport within the city
Motokars (my spelling) are the main mode of transport within the city
My Ferrari
My Ferrari
We just walk by it
We just walk by it
Art is everywhere
Art is everywhere
A market- indoors
A market- indoors

market

Open market: bananas, are only one type of food
Open market: bananas, are only one type of food
Moth- long antennae
Moth- long antennae
Heliconia
Heliconia
Heliconia-2
Heliconia-2
Excitement every time
Excitement every time